How To Create Cyanotypes from Home

In the world of photography, where digital techniques dominate the landscape, there's an enduring allure to the art forms of yesteryears. One such captivating method is cyanotype photography – which is the topic of today’s installment in our series of virtual art workshops. Revered for its distinctive blue tones, cyanotype photography offers artists and enthusiasts a chance to create stunning images with a touch of vintage charm. In this post, we’re walking you step-by-step through the process of creating your own cyanotypes from home using both Jacquard's Cyanotype Sensitizer Set and Pretreated Cyanotype Fabric Sheets. This medium is so fast, easy, and inexpensive that you have lots of freedom to experiment. Let’s get started!

Understanding the Cyanotype Technique

Cyanotype photography relies on a simple chemical reaction that transforms light-sensitive compounds into an appealing blue hue. The process involves two main solutions: ammonium iron(III) citrate and potassium ferricyanide. When these solutions are mixed and coated onto paper or fabric, they react to light and create a photo-sensitive surface. Objects or negatives are placed on the treated surface, and exposure to sunlight or UV light leads to a chemical reaction that results in the characteristic blue and white image.

Essential Cyanotype Materials

Here’s a quick breakdown of the materials you’ll need to create cyanotype art:

1. Chemicals: The heart of cyanotype photography lies in the chemicals. Here at Cheap Joe's Art Stuff, we offer a high-quality cyanotype kit from Jacquard that contain pre-measured chemicals, making the process easier for beginners. You can shop the Jacquard Cyanotype Sensitizer Set on our website.
   
   
2. Paper or Fabric: The surface you choose greatly affects the outcome. With the Sensitizer Set, you’re free to choose some interesting handmade watercolor papers, shaped papers, and variously textured papers. We also recommend the Cyanotype Pretreated Fabric Sheets, 30 pack by Jacquard. If you choose to use these pre-treated sheets, then you won’t need the chemicals. While paper is a popular choice, fabrics like cotton or silk can also yield remarkable results.
   
   
3. Brushes: For coating the chemicals onto the surface, soft brushes with fine bristles are recommended to ensure an even application. You can find a cheap nylon or foam brush that will do the trick in our extensive selection of artist brushes.
   
   
4. UV Light Source: Sunlight is the traditional source of UV light for cyanotype exposure. However, you can also use UV lamps for controlled indoor conditions.
   
   
5. Negatives or Objects: Objects like leaves, flowers, feathers, or stencils offer endless creative possibilities. Other options include necklaces, lace, a photo negative (you can turn an existing picture into a negative by using Jacquard’s Cyanotype Negative Generator and printing it out onto clear acetate), a drawing made on transparent acetate with an opaque marker, or any 3D object that will cast interesting shadows.
   
   
6. Plexiglass/Glass Sheet: Large enough to cover the paper. Take apart an old frame if you don't have this on hand. We recommend a 16" x 20" sheet of Acrylite Clear Acrylic Sheets.
   
   
7. Board: A drawing board or anything that can be moved easily.
   
   
8. Tray: This is for the water bath. We recommend an enamel butcher's tray, but you can also use your sink, bathtub, or one of those under-bed plastic storage boxes that you can empty for the afternoon.
   
   
9. Mixing Cup: A small cup that can be used to measure equal parts of the chemicals. It doesn’t have to be marked with measurements.
   
   
10. Gloves: To protect your hands from the chemicals.

Step-by-Step Guide to Creating Cyanotype Prints

Now that you’ve gathered your materials, it’s time for the fun part: making the prints! Here’s what to do:

1. Preparing the Chemicals: Mix equal parts of ammonium iron(III) citrate (part A) and potassium ferricyanide (part B) to create the sensitizer solution. We recommend using about 1-2 tablespoons of each to start. A little goes a long way, and it's only stable for 2-4 hours after you mix the two together. Remember, if you are using pre-treated fabric sheets, you won’t need the chemicals, so skip steps 1 and 2.
   
   
   
   
2. Coating the Surface: In a dim room and using a brush, apply the sensitizer solution onto the paper or fabric. Only one thin coat is necessary. You can get creative with the brushwork, leaving thicker and thinner areas that will show up more organically in the print. You can even paint shapes, or not paint to the edge which will leave a nice border. You can of course get a very even coat too by brushing horizontally, then vertically.
   
   

   

   

   

3. Allow to Dry: Put the paper in a dark place to dry. When it’s no longer cool to the touch, it’s dry. You can also use a hairdryer to speed up the process. While the sheets are drying, go ahead and experiment with the compositions you want to make with your light-blocking materials. Time is of the essence when you're dealing with light-sensitive materials; you don't have to rush, but you don't want to dilly-dally either.
   
   
4. Arranging the Composition: In a dim room, place your dried paper on a board, arrange your chosen negatives or objects onto the coated surface, and cover it with the glass. You can experiment with various arrangements and compositions to achieve your desired result. Make sure the glass fully covers the paper, as a shadow from the edge will cause a light area in the print. If it's not windy or your objects aren't flat, there's no need for the glass. It's there to hold the objects pressed close to the paper without moving.
   
   
5. Exposure to Light: Expose the coated surface to full sunlight or a UV light source for 2 to 10 minutes. The print will turn dark and will then lighten. The exposure time varies depending on the intensity of light and the desired level of detail. The stronger the sun, the shorter your exposure time. This isn’t necessarily exact and you have a good bit of leeway - you’ll be guessing somewhat but you’ll get a feel for it and can experiment with different exposure times, noting the light conditions at the time.
   

   

   

   

   

   

   

6. Rinsing and Fixing: After exposure, rinse the coated surface in water to remove unreacted chemicals. The image will initially appear faint but will darken as it dries. At first, you’ll see a little green in the water which is the excess chemicals washing out. Change the water and rinse again until the water is clear. Make sure the whites of your print aren’t tinged yellow – rinse more to get those chemicals off.
   
   

   

   

7. Drying and Enjoying: Once the print is fixed, drain and hang the print to allow it to dry. It can also be laid flat to dry. Do not dry in direct sunlight. In 24 hours, your print will oxidize to a slightly deeper blue, which is the final appearance. Your cyanotype print is now ready to be admired!
   
   

   

   

   

   

Embrace Creativity Through Blue Hues with Cyanotype Photography

We hope you enjoyed this installment of our virtual art workshops. We’re proud to be your reliable partner in exploring the world of cyanotype photography, providing high-quality materials and expert guidance to help you embark on this adventure. Whether you're a seasoned photographer or a curious beginner, cyanotype photography opens up a world of possibilities, where the past and present come together in shades of blue and creativity knows no bounds.